Stuffed Kousa Squash
One of the more unique varieties of squash we grow is the kousa, a sweet-tasting, grayish-green, egg-shaped zucchini that is native to Mexico but found its way to Lebanon, where it is traditionally served stuffed with ground beef or lamb and rice and cooked in a garlicky tomato broth. This is a locavore riff on the recipe, using ingredients that can be found at the Saturday market at Crystal Spring Farm, though you may have to wait for the first weekend of the month when Maine Grains comes through with the pearled barley (Morning Glory in Brunswick and Replenova Farm’s store in Durham also often carry it if you can’t wait). It’s a recipe that seems intimidating but is fairly simple to execute, and impressive for a dinner party or special meal, and leftovers keep and reheat very well.
4 kousa squash, about 3 ½ lb total weight
½ lb ground lamb (from Buckwheat Blossom Farm, or Apple Creek when in season)
1 small onion, finely diced
¼ pint cherry tomatoes, or 1 small tomato, any color, diced
⅛ tsp turmeric
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground coriander
⅛ tsp chili flakes
¼ tsp sumac (optional) (all spices can be procured from Gryffon Ridge)
1 tsp salt
1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
1 Tbsp chopped fresh spearmint
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
¾ cup pearled black barley (available from Maine Grains)
Soak the barley in cold, clean water for about half an hour while you prepare the squash. Cut the stem ends off each squash, then hollow them out, leaving about ¼” thick. A handheld apple corer or pumpkin carving tool works great for this. Scrape shallow grooves down the sides of each squash using the tip of the corer, this will help the cooking liquid penetrate the flesh more easily. Drain the barley and combine in a mixing bowl with the rest of the filling ingredients, mixing by hand is the best way to fully incorporate everything evenly. Stuff each squash to about ½” from the stem end, being sure not to pack them too tightly as the barley will need some room to expand. The ends of the squash can be plugged with nasturtium leaves, grape leaves, small squash plant leaves or any other edible herb or flowering plant leaf. Prepare a tomato-based broth for cooking the squash. If you happen to have had a quart of spicy tomato fennel soup from last summer in your freezer, this works beautifully, otherwise you can use tomato juice or puree with some chicken or lamb stock (available from Apple Creek), seasoned with salt and pepper and crushed garlic and whatever other aromatics you’d like (sliced onion, fennel, scallion bulbs…). You’ll need at least a quart. Place squash in a wide pot, in as close to a single layer as you can get, and add the liquid plus just enough water to cover. Add a plate on top to keep them submerged, cover and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the plate, gently turn the squash over and add a big dollop of garlic scape pesto and about ½ tsp of dried spearmint, then cover again and simmer another 30 minutes. Squash will be very tender. Check cooking liquid for seasoning and adjust to your liking, and serve each squash with a generous ladle full of cooking liquid and fresh parsley.